1. Gather the Necessary Tools and Materials

Before beginning, ensure you have the following items:

– Soundbar with its mounting bracket or universal soundbar mount
– Floating TV mount (already installed or to be installed)
– Measuring tape
– Stud finder
– Level
– Drill with appropriate drill bits
– Screwdriver
– Wall anchors (if not mounting into studs)
– Cable management kit (optional but recommended)
– Safety glasses

2. Determine the Optimal Mounting Position

The ideal placement for a soundbar under a floating TV is directly beneath the television, centered horizontally, and positioned as close to the bottom edge of the TV as possible without obstructing the screen or the TV’s infrared sensor.

Key considerations:

– Leave at least 1–2 inches of clearance between the top of the soundbar and the bottom of the TV to allow for ventilation and to prevent overheating.
– Ensure the soundbar does not block the TV’s remote control receiver. Check your TV manual for the location of the IR sensor.
– Verify that the soundbar’s height does not interfere with the floating TV’s tilt or swivel range.

3. Locate Wall Studs

Using a stud finder, locate the wall studs behind the drywall. Mounting into studs provides the most secure support, especially for heavier soundbars. Mark the stud positions with a pencil.

– If studs are not aligned with your desired mounting position, use heavy-duty wall anchors rated for the weight of your soundbar.
– For floating TV mounts, studs are typically required for the TV bracket itself. Ensure the soundbar mount does not interfere with the TV mount’s attachment points.

4. Install the Soundbar Mounting Bracket

Most soundbars come with a dedicated mounting bracket or are compatible with universal soundbar mounts. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for assembly.

General steps:

1. Attach the mounting brackets to the soundbar using the provided screws. Ensure they are securely fastened.
2. Hold the wall-mounted bracket against the wall at your marked position, using a level to confirm it is straight.
3. Mark the screw holes on the wall through the bracket.
4. Drill pilot holes at the marked locations. If drilling into studs, use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw diameter. If using anchors, drill holes matching the anchor size.
5. Insert wall anchors if needed, then screw the bracket securely into the wall.
6. Double-check that the bracket is level and firmly attached.

5. Mount the Soundbar

With the bracket installed, carefully attach the soundbar:

– Align the brackets on the soundbar with the wall-mounted bracket.
– Gently push or slide the soundbar into place until it clicks or locks securely.
– Some mounts have a locking mechanism or set screws—tighten these to prevent accidental dislodging.

6. Manage Cables for a Clean Look

To maintain the floating aesthetic, conceal all cables connecting the soundbar to the TV and power source.

Options for cable management:

– Use an in-wall cable routing kit (check local building codes; some jurisdictions require professional installation for in-wall wiring).
– Run cables through a cable raceway or conduit that matches your wall color.
– If your floating TV mount has built-in cable management channels, route the soundbar cables alongside the TV cables.

Connect the soundbar to the TV using the appropriate cable (HDMI ARC/eARC, optical, or auxiliary). Ensure connections are secure before finalizing cable placement.

7. Test the Setup

Before completing the installation:

– Turn on the TV and soundbar to confirm audio is working correctly.
– Test the remote control to ensure the IR sensor is not blocked.
– Adjust the soundbar’s angle if your mount allows for tilt adjustment.
– Verify that the floating TV’s movement (if it tilts or swivels) is not restricted.

8. Final Safety Check

– Gently tug the soundbar to ensure it is firmly attached.
– Confirm that all screws and brackets are tight.
– Check that no cables are pinched or under tension.

Additional Tips

Always verify that your wall mount and anchors can support the combined weight of the soundbar and any brackets.

Some floating TV mounts include a dedicated soundbar bracket. If available, use the manufacturer’s recommended accessory for optimal integration.

If you are uncomfortable with drilling into walls or handling electrical connections, consider hiring a professional installer.

Conclusion

Mounting a soundbar under a floating TV is a straightforward project that significantly enhances both the appearance and audio quality of your home entertainment system. By carefully measuring, securing the mount to wall studs, and managing cables, you can achieve a polished, clutter-free look that rivals professional installations. With the right tools and attention to detail, this upgrade can be completed in under an hour, delivering lasting satisfaction and improved sound performance.

This guide outlines the most effective methods for hiding TV wires inside plaster walls, from in-wall cable routing to surface-mount solutions.

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1. Understand Your Wall Type

Plaster walls are typically found in older homes (pre-1950s) and consist of wooden lath strips covered with multiple layers of plaster. This construction differs significantly from modern drywall:

Plaster is generally 5/8 to 3/4 inch thick, but can vary.

It cracks or crumbles if not cut carefully.

Lath strips and occasional metal mesh can block pathways.

Before cutting, locate studs and check for electrical wiring or plumbing using a stud finder capable of detecting live wires. Mark all obstructions clearly.

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2. Choose Your Method

Option A:

In-Wall Cable Routing (Best for Permanent Installations)

This method hides wires completely inside the wall cavity. It requires cutting two holes: one behind the TV and one near the baseboard or outlet.

Tools needed:
– Plaster-cutting reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool
– Low-voltage cable management kit (includes two wall plates and a raceway)
– Fish tape or glow rods
– Drywall saw (for the initial cut)

Step-by-step:

– Use a level to align the top hole directly behind the TV’s connection panel. The bottom hole should be near a power outlet or baseboard.

– Score the plaster with a utility knife first, then use an oscillating multi-tool with a carbide blade to cut cleanly through plaster and lath. Avoid using a hammer or force—plaster will crack.

– These support the wall plates and prevent cracking.

– Use fish tape to pull HDMI, power, and audio cables from the top hole down to the bottom hole. For power cables, ensure they meet local code (see note below).

– Attach plates to both holes and connect cables.

– Fill any gaps around the plates with spackle, sand smooth, and touch up paint.

> Important: In most jurisdictions, running standard power cords inside a wall violates electrical code. Use a retractable power cord system or install a new outlet behind the TV (hire a licensed electrician for this).

Option B:

Surface-Mount Raceway Kit (Best for Renters or Temporary Setups)

If you cannot cut into plaster, a paintable raceway adheres to the wall surface and conceals wires in a slim channel.

Steps:

1. Measure and cut the raceway to length.
2. Clean the wall surface with alcohol.
3. Peel the adhesive backing and press the raceway firmly against the wall along the desired path.
4. Insert cables into the channel and snap the cover closed.
5. Paint the raceway to match the wall color.

Pros: No wall damage, easy to remove. Cons: Slightly visible, even when painted.

Option C:

Behind-the-TV Cable Management Box

For a simpler approach, mount a decorative cable management box directly behind the TV. This hides excess wires without wall penetration. It works best when the TV is close to an existing outlet.

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3. Special Considerations for Plaster

Plaster dust is fine and pervasive. Use a vacuum attachment while cutting, and seal off the room with plastic sheeting.

Always score the cut line deeply before using power tools. Apply painter’s tape over the cut area to minimize chipping.

If your saw hits wooden lath, switch to a fine-tooth blade. For metal mesh, use a carbide-tipped blade.

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4. Final Tips

Run an extra HDMI cable or a conduit tube inside the wall for easy upgrades.

Use small stickers or color-coded tape before pulling wires.

Connect all devices and verify signal strength before closing the wall.

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Conclusion

Hiding TV wires in plaster walls is entirely achievable with patience and the right tools. For a permanent, invisible result, in-wall routing is best—but requires careful cutting and adherence to electrical codes. If drilling into plaster is not an option, a high-quality raceway kit offers a nearly invisible compromise. Whichever method you choose, the result will be a cleaner, more polished living space that puts the focus on your screen—not the cables.